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  • In a pinch? Pause before pulling your 401(k).

    Think Before You Take. Don’t Make My Mistake.

    I was 23 and fresh out of college. Like many twentysomethings, my priorities were Friday and Saturday nights, hanging with friends, and piecing together enough income to cover rent and beer. I worked a desk job by day and picked up restaurant shifts at night and on weekends to make ends meet.

    Then came March 2004. I got called into my supervisor’s office and was told my job was being eliminated due to budget cuts.

    It was my first layoff of my life and wouldn’t be the last.

    I qualified for unemployment, but in Arizona at the time, that maxed out at just $215 a week. Thankfully, I still had the restaurant gig and was able to pick up more hours, but it wasn’t enough. I was living paycheck to paycheck and growing more anxious by the day.

    So, I did what felt like the only option: I cashed out my 401(k).

    At the time, it didn’t seem like a huge deal. My taxable income for the year was only about $30,000, and I ended up getting a small tax refund. But let’s break down what really happened when I withdrew that $3,000:

    Gross Distribution $3,000.00
    Federal income taxes (14.1%) $   423.00
    Arizona state income taxes (2.59%) $     77.70
    Federal early withdrawal tax (10%) $   300.00
    Arizona state early withdrawal tax (2.5%) $     75.00
    Net Distribution $2,124.30
    This means that almost 30 percent of the gross amount, or $875.70, went to taxes. Fast forward 21 years to mid-2025. What if I had left that $3,000 invested? Had I left that $3,000 invested in an S&P 500 Index fund, it would have grown by 610% between 1/1/2004 and 6/30/2025—an annualized return of 9.9%, turning into roughly $21,300.  That quick decision to “just take the money” cost me over $21,000 in long-term value.   The Bigger Picture

    Recently I did some consulting work in a retirement service center of a well-known national broker-dealer, assisting with both distributions processing and fielding participant phone calls. Given the recent economic climate, many requested hardship withdrawals, termination distributions, or loans just to make ends meet, not recognizing the long-term ramifications of those often-uninformed decisions.

    Sadly, most of us were never taught how to prepare for the unexpected. Fortunately, some states now require financial literacy classes to graduate high school, and more community organizations are stepping up to fill the gap.

    So here’s what many people don’t realize:

     

    What You Need to Know About 401(k) Withdrawals
    1. It’s not a checking account. Your 401(k) is meant to help you retire one day—not to cover short-term emergencies.
    2. Hardship withdrawals are limited. Even if your employer allows them, you have to qualify. The IRS only permits withdrawals for specific reasons—like avoiding foreclosure, covering medical expenses, or paying tuition. You’ll also need documentation to prove your case.
    3. Taxes and penalties hurt. If you’re under 59½, you’ll likely owe both income taxes and a 10% early withdrawal penalty. I gave up almost 30 cents of every dollar I took out. That adds up—fast.
     

    The Power of Time and Compound Growth

    There’s an opportunity cost to every financial decision. Retirement accounts are designed to grow—slowly and steadily—over decades. Every dollar you withdraw today is a dollar that loses decades of growth potential. Time is your greatest asset. The longer your money stays invested, the harder it works for you. When you take money out early, you’re robbing your future self.   If You Have to Access Money… Sometimes, life leaves us with no choice. But before you dip into retirement funds, explore these alternatives: 1. 401(k) Loans (if your plan allows them): Some retirement plans offer loans as an alternative to withdrawals. While they can be helpful, they’re not free—and should be taken with care. A 401(k) loan works much like a personal loan:
    • Borrow a set amount (min. $1,000, max. $50,000 or 50% of your vested balance)
    • Interest is charged (usually prime, or prime plus a margin)
    • Repay it over 1–5 years (up to 30 years for a home purchase)
    • There may be an origination fee
    But, there are extra rules…
    • Plan must allow loans—not all do, meaning that if your plan doesn’t allow them, you can’t borrow
    • Limits apply—some plans cap the number of loans, how often you can take out, or whether refinancing a current loan is even an option
    • Purpose may matter—general use, hardship, or home purchase (if hardship only, you must adhere to the IRS hardship rules)
    • Repayment flexibility varies—some plans don’t allow extra payments
    • Loan history affects new borrowing—some plans look at your highest balance in the last 12 months
    And a few unknowns to consider…
    • Loan payments come from your after-tax pay, but traditional 401(k) dollars are taxed again when withdrawn later. Even Roth repayments (for which the contributory portion was already taxed at the time of deposit) still reduce your take-home pay. That means if you’re paying $150 per check, that’s $150 less in your pocket until it’s repaid.
    • If you terminate employment and you don’t repay the loan within a short window (the “cure period”, usually somewhere between 4 to 6 months following termination), the remaining balance may be treated as a distribution—triggering taxes and possible penalties.

    So, what’s the catch?

    Using a 401(k) loan to knock out high-interest debt can make sense. And generally speaking, a loan is often better than a withdrawal—mainly because of the tax consequences. But it’s not one-size-fits-all. Always check what your plan allows and explore other options too—you might have more than you think.

    2. Emergency Fund:

    If you don’t already have one, it’s a good idea to build an emergency fund—also known as a “slush fund.” This type of account is intended to be earmarked for those unexpected short-term expenses, such as:

    • Job or income loss
    • Non-routine medical or dental expenses
    • Emergency home or car repairs
    • Travel due to family illness
    • Temporary living or relocation expenses
    Financial experts often recommend saving 3 to 6 months’ worth of expenses in a liquid account, like a checking, savings, or money market account. If married and you have two reliable sources of income, 3 months of savings may work, though if there’s only one income, 6 months is recommended. A simple way to start is by setting aside a fixed amount from each paycheck—say, $25—into a separate account just for emergencies. To make it easy, you can usually automate this through your payroll provider’s website or app. Using a secondary account helps keep these funds separate from your regular spending, so you’re less tempted to dip into them for everyday or planned expenses. 3. Side Hustle: There’s an economy within the economy—the gig economy. You can drive for a rideshare app, deliver packages, or put your skills to work online, whether that’s tutoring, building websites, fixing things around the house, selling artwork, or even recording and publishing videos. There are more options out there than we sometimes realize as a way to supplement income, or to increase cash flow. 4. Negotiate Debt: If you don’t ask, you don’t receive. A friend of mine received a sizable emergency room bill before meeting his deductible. I told him to call the hospital and explain his situation. The result? He set up a payment plan and got 25% of the payable amount excused. For him, that $6,000 hospital bill turned into $4,500. And, better yet, his credit wasn’t even impacted. Creditors would rather get something than nothing. The same goes for credit cards. While they might not excuse your debt, you can ask to speak with their retention team to try lowering your interest rate. For example, maybe you received another credit card offer of a 0% rate, and you are inclined to transfer your debt to that card. Assuming you are in good standing with your payments, that bank or credit card company would much rather reduce your rate to maintain your business, versus than lose your balance to a competitor and have to source new business. 5. Sell Stuff

    Got a stash of sports cards or comic books collecting dust in the attic? What about that exercise equipment you picked up during COVID that’s now doubling as a coat rack (true story)? Or clothes you haven’t worn in ages but are still in great shape? There are tons of apps, websites, and second-hand stores where you can turn those unused items into extra cash.

     

    Bottom Line: Make Retirement Withdrawals a Last Resort

    When the going gets tough, it’s easy to slip into crisis mode. We all need money to live—but when the well runs dry, it’s hard to know where to turn. I spoke with countless people through the call center who were already stretched thin, and too often, I had to deliver difficult news: hardship withdrawals or loans weren’t available to them, or they had already used up what they could.

    Life throws curveballs—layoffs, medical emergencies, natural disasters, and more. And while those moments can feel overwhelming, they don’t define you.

    But when they do happen, use them as a chance to reassess. Build a budget. Start saving. Tackle your debt. Create a financial cushion through an emergency fund.

    And remember you’re not alone. There are free or low-cost resources out there—nonprofits, credit counselors, support groups, and yes, even financial advisors, planners, and coaches who can help (just make sure you understand how they get paid). If I could go back in time, would I have done things differently? Yes, had I known about the ramifications of taking money from a 401(k) plan, I would have planned for the unexpected. But I can’t change the past, just learn from it and hopefully impart my experience, strength, and hope on others. And that’s why I’m sharing this.
  • Pre-Tax vs. Roth: Which One Is Right For You?

    When deferring to a workplace retirement plan, such as a 401(k), 403(b), or even a governmental 457 plan, most employees generally have two key alternatives:

    • Pre-tax account (a.k.a. “traditional” option)
    • Designated Roth account.
    Both have their pros and cons, but which is better? It depends.

    But, choosing between the two really boils down to one key thing: do you want to pay taxes now or later?

     

    The Basics

    Before diving into the specifics, it’s helpful to lay out the basics of how the two deferral types differ:

    • Pre-Tax:Deferrals reduce your taxable income today, with contributions and earnings growing tax-deferred, and withdrawals taxed as ordinary income.
    • Roth:Taxes are paid upfront, with contributions growing tax-free and qualified withdrawals – including earnings – withdrawn tax-free (in the case of earnings, as long as the 5-year rule is met).

    If your employer’s retirement plan offers both pre-tax and Roth options, this provides you with additional latitude to control when you pay your taxes related to your retirement savings (pre-tax = later vs. Roth = now). 

     

    It’s the after-tax dollars that truly matter With retirement savings, after-tax dollars matter. Why? Because that’s what is left over once taxes are paid.  This begs the question, “Would a person rather end up with more money, or less money, in their retirement account?” More, of course!

    Retirement planning is not just about how much you save, but how much you keep of what you save, as what remains will fund your future lifestyle.

    Naturally, the goal is to end up with more, not less. Will you benefit more in the long run from pre-tax or Roth? This all depends on future tax rates. If rates will be higher, this makes the long-term argument for Roth, whereas if rates will be lower, this bodes well for pre-tax. However, future taxes are only one piece of the equation.

     

    Why Pre-Tax Is Still the Default for Many

    There are a few reasons that pre-tax deferrals remain the norm:

    • They’ve been around longer (since 1978), while Roth options in employer plans became available in 2006.
    • Not all plans offer a Roth option yet.
    • Many plans use automatic enrollment, which often defaults to pre-tax; unless you proactively elect Roth, your deferrals will be pre-tax.
    • Even when Roth is available, some employees mistakenly believe that they are unable to contribute to a Roth account due to income limits. Yes, income restrictions do exist within Roth IRAs, but Roth contributions within a workplace plan are acceptable at all income levels.
      That said, especially with some of the upcoming changes resulting from SECURE 1.0 and SECURE 2.0, plan sponsors continue to amend their plans to include a designated Roth option (and thanks to SECURE, it is now possible to have automatic deferrals directed into Roth).

     

    Some Unknown Factoids About Roth Roth has been around since 1997, thanks to the work of the late U.S. Senator William Roth (hence the namesake), who co-sponsored the law that enacted the Roth IRA. In 2006, the tax code was expanded to allow for Roth elective deferrals into qualified retirement plans such as 401(k) and 403(b).  To reiterate what I noted above, unlike in the case of a Roth IRA, there are no income limits to contribute to a designated Roth account within an employer’s retirement plan. All are welcome regardless of income. Starting in 2025, as a result of SECURE 2.0, those 50 years of age or older making at least $145,000 in adjusted gross income annually can only make the catch-up deferral to a designated Roth account.1

     

    Why Pre-Tax? Here are some common reasons why some employees may opt for making pre-tax deferrals:
    • Immediate tax deduction:Lowers your taxable income today, increasing take-home pay, thereby lowering taxable income for the current tax year.
    • Lower expected taxes in retirement: If you anticipate your income (and tax rate) will be lower in retirement, deferring taxes could mean paying less taxes overall. 
    • Potential current year tax savings for higher income earners:Generally speaking, current year tax deductions can often be the difference maker between eclipsing into a higher tax bracket in any given year.
    • More take-home pay:Since pre-tax deferrals reduce your taxes, this translates into more take-home pay. For those who have higher short-term cash needs, this can be helpful.
    • Roth deferrals aren’t matched:This is seldom the norm anymore, but some employers still only match pre-tax deferrals. For those employees who want to maximize employer match, this could mean deferring pre-tax in such an instance.
    • No other tax deductions:If someone doesn’t have any other income tax deductions – e.g. student loan interest, mortgage interest – pre-tax deferrals may serve as an attractive means of a tax deduction.

     

    Why Roth? Here are some common reasons why Roth may make sense for some:
    • Higher expected taxes in retirement:In the event that taxes rise in the future will increase, paying taxes now (at a possibly lower rate) means that you can avoid not only paying taxes later (at a possibly higher rate).
    • You’re young or in a low tax bracket:The younger someone is, the more time their retirement dollars will have to grow over time. Contributing after-tax dollars can mean more years of tax-free growth.
    • You expect your income to grow:An expected salary increase may ultimately push someone into a higher tax bracket. Until that happens, Roth elective deferrals may provide an opportunity to put after-tax money away while in the lower tax bracket.
    • The psychological impact of paying taxes: There could be saver’s remorse when someone sees a chunk of their retirement assets taken for taxes, which is often the case with pre-tax funds. With Roth funds, the taxes have already been paid, which offers some a feeling of satisfaction.
    • Avoid paying future RMDs:Starting in 2024, there is no longer a required minimum distribution (“RMD”) on designated Roth accounts. Pre-tax funds, however, do carry an RMD. 
    • Qualified distributions are withdrawn tax-free:When taking a qualified distribution from a Roth account, deferrals and earnings come out tax-free, whereas pre-tax deferrals and earnings are taxed (and potentially penalized) when withdrawn.

     

    What about employer contributions?

    Traditionally, employer contributions are pre-tax since they allow employers a business tax deduction. So, in such instance, even if 100% of your deferrals are placed into a designated Roth account, you would still have pre-tax funds.

    As a result of SECURE 2.0, Roth employer contributions are now a reality. This means that any such employer contributions, if the employer chooses to offer this option and provided an employee chooses to treat as Roth, would be taxed in the current year.

     

    Pre-tax vs. Roth… so which one’s better? I hate to burst your bubble, but the answer is… that there’s no “one-size-fits-all” answer. That said, =there’s a clear advantage to making Roth deferrals especially for younger savers (or those early on in their careers), or those who may anticipate a higher tax bracket later on. However, pre-tax offers the immediacy of tax savings (via deductions), and can be advantageous for those with near-term cash flow needs. And the reality is that pre-tax vs. Roth isn’t an all-or-nothing approach. In fact, some may split their deferrals between the two, whereas a benefit of the blended approach provides tax diversification in retirement. How someone decides to defer to their workplace retirement plan – whether pre-tax, Roth, or both – is completely up to them and a decision that should be based on their unique circumstances. And remember, the decision to defer pre-tax, or Roth, can always be changed. Irrespective of how one opts to defer their funds, the fact is, that their retirement assets will have the opportunity to increase in value over a long horizon.    Summing It All Up Employees often ask me what to do, and my response is consistently the same—that it all depends on your personal situation. Even if I were in a position where I could render advice, my answer would remain the same. What I also suggest is that individuals consult with a financial planner or tax professional if they have one, or even to the financial advisor who oversees their employer-sponsored plan, for guidance. Many recordkeeper and bank websites, as well as financial wellness websites, have financial calculators that employees can access for free. Many of these calculators compare pre-tax and Roth elective deferrals. As with any online tools, these calculators provide estimates and come with imperfections.     Don’t Forget The Big Picture While choosing between pre-tax and Roth (or opting to use both) is important, saving enough over the long run is paramount.  According to the U.S. Department of Labor, savers should aim to have 70-90% percent of your pre-retirement income2 to maintain a similar standard of living in retirement. There are many recommendations on how much to save annually. Fidelity suggests a minimum of 15% annually.3 At the end of the day, achieving retirement readiness is about taking action:
    1. Decide how much to save annually.
    2. Determine your mix of pre-tax and Roth deferrals.
    3. Invest wisely, in alignment with your risk/reward tolerance.
    4. Implementing the above strategy.
    5. Adjust as needed over time.
     

    Sources:

    1. Internal Revenue Service, https://www.irs.gov/newsroom/irs-announces-administrative-transition-period-for-new-roth-catch-up-requirement-catch-up-contributions-still-permitted-after-2023
    2. U.S. Department of Labor, https://www.dol.gov/sites/dolgov/files/ebsa/about-ebsa/our-activities/resource-center/publications/top-10-ways-to-prepare-for-retirement.pdf
    3. Fidelity, https://www.fidelity.com/viewpoints/retirement/how-much-money-should-I-save